Who’d have figured? Who’d have known? Who but Dean Gardner would have imagined that a lonely little luncheonette in Brown Deer, Wisconsin could successfully be transformed into a lively 1920s-style Mexican cantina?
“I set out to create something truly unique and original,” says Gardner, a veteran restaurateur best known for his popular La Frontera cafes. “I wanted to establish an affordable gourmet destination that was completely different from everything else in the area.”
And with Poco Loco that’s precisely what he’s done.
From its boldly intimate floor plan to its distinctively vintage decor, Gardner’s exciting new eatery immediately transports patrons deep into the heart of the Yucatan Peninsula. Indeed, you can almost feel the gentle tropical breezes and hear the distant sounds of bustling caminos with every taste of the delicious grilled meats and seafood served at this improbable suburban location.
“Most Americans have yet to become familiar with all the nuances of Mexico's regional cuisines,” Gardner says. “Restaurants around here don’t even begin to scratch the surface when it comes to genuine Mexican cooking.”
At Poco Loco, he promises, Milwaukeeans finally can enjoy the extraordinary classic dishes the moles, ceviches, adobos and barbacoas that are traditional to authentic Southwestern kitchens.
To be sure, each item on Poco Loco’s eclectic menu is a mouth-watering culinary adventure waiting to happen. “The key is to always utilize the freshest ingredients,” Gardner notes. “Fresh ingredients can be magic in the hands of a passionate chef.”
That’s where Lupe Ferrer comes in. The award-winning Vera Cruz native has conjured a magical bill of fare that features his trademark 16-ounce ‘Cowboy Steak’ and incomparable Ceviche Campeche, as well as his fabulous fish tacos (filled with grilled Tilapia and chipotle mayonnaise) and an ever-evolving array of delectable daily specials.
Who’d have figured? Who’d have known? In a business where ideas are tossed around like greens in a salad, who but Dean Gardner could successfully redefine a genre and reinvent the local dining experience?
With Poco Loco that’s precisely what he’s done.
Serving Lunch and Dinner:
Mon-Thurs: 11:00am-2:00pm and 5:00-9:00pm
4135 W. River Lane in Brown Deer.
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